Oct

Marchesa Luisa Casati

“I want to be a living work of art”

Stilul vestimentar al marchizei Luisa Casati ( 1881-1957) a inspirat de-a lungul timpului numerosi designeri si artisti, precum si o linie vestimentara care ii poarta numele (Marchesa). Tinutele sale aratau ca niste costumatii, socand prin extravaganta si nonconformism.

In secolul XX, in principal in primele decenii, incantatoarea imagine a unei italience de vita nobila uimea multimile prin aparitiile sale incarcate de pene si bijuterii. Cu 1,80 m inaltime, foarte slaba, cu parul vopsit intr-o nuanta puternica de rosu, marchiza aparea la dineuri “accesorizata” cu serpi vii in jurul gatului, purtati ca si cum ar fi fost siraguri de perle.

Fiind printre punctele de interes ale vremii, Luisa Casati privea fiecare ocazie de a se afisa, ca fiind un bal mascat. Fie ca isi plimba leoparzii prin piata San Marco, la miezul noptii, imbracata doar cu o haina de blana, sau fie ca gazduia baluri mascate la Paris, reusea sa uimeasca de fiecare data. A devenit cu adevarat intimidanta pentru persoanele din mediul in care se desfasura atunci cand, la o petrecere, a incuiat in dulap o invitata care ii copiase costumul.

Ochii sai imensi erau si mai accentuati cu extract de matraguna.

In palatul sau din Venetia, petrecerile Marchizei Casati erau fascinante si scandaloase. Inconjurata de servitori goi, dormea in acelasi pat cu pantera sa, care avea la gat un colier de diamant.

A nascut multe pasiuni in randul barbatilor din acea epoca, si a avut multe aventuri si o singura casatorie, insa iubirea vietii ei a fost un poet italian, Gabriele D Annunzio, care avea aproape 20 de ani in plus fata de ea.

A comandat diverse portrete la numerosi artisti (printre care Man Ray sau Giovanni Boldini), si considerata odata cea mai bogata femeie a Italiei, marchiza si-a petrecut ultimii ani din viata fara niciun ban. Ca sa-i fie platite datoriile acumulate, toate posesiunile ei au fost licitate, iar majoritatea au fost cumparate de Coco Chanel.

A fost inmormantata purtand o pereche de gene false.

Ca un demon, imaginea ei a continuat sa fie prezenta in inspiratiile multor designeri, si gasim foarte multe referinte in colectiile de moda contemporane. In 2004, New York Time a declarat-o “the Godmother of the new eccentricity movement.”

A fost sursa de inspiratie pentru creatia casei de moda Cartier, inelul Panthere.

Like a demon, her image continued to haunt every designer’s inspiration and we find numerous references about her in contemporary collections. In 2004 NewYork Times called her “the Godmother of the new eccentricity movement.”

Fashion style of marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) has inspired over the years many designers and artists, and a clothing line that has hes name (Marchesa). Her outfits looked like costumes, extravagant and shocking.

In her Venetian palace, Marchesa Casati’s parties were fascination and scandal. Surrounded by naked servants ’”dressed” with sheets of gold, she wore jewelry as a snake and in her bed she kept a panther whom had a diamond collar.
She inspired a famous Cartier design – Panthere- and her image is found in a famous design / advertising for jewerly.

13 years ago Short URL Comments

great personalities

fashion/marchiza/maria casati/mcqueen/moda/statement

Oct

Edie Sedgwick

“You have to work like mad to make people understand… Even if I don’t make it, you know, I really insist on believing, and then I fall off the edge because there’s nobody else to follow it. And I would just fall off the edge.”

Dezvolt un anumit fel de obsesii pentru marile femei ale lumii, cele care au influentat industria modei, oamenii, artisti si designeri. Una dintre ele este Edie Sedgwick, muza lui Andy Warhol, actrita, artista si model. Edie a devenit ultra-cunoscuta in anul 1965, dupa ce a jucat in multe dintre filmele lui Andy Warhol, fiind numita “Factory girl”.

Curand dupa, a inceput sa apara tot mai des in paginile revistelor Life, Vogue sau Glamour. A devenit “it girl” a acelor ani, insa ritmul pe care viata ei l-a prins in urma evenimentelor care se petreceau atat de repede au condus-o catre auto-distrugere, astfel incat a murit la varsta de 28 de ani.

It’s okay — I know.

On being told by a palm reader that she had a very short life line

Provenind dintr-o familie instarita, foarte frumoasa si cu multi prieteni in inalta societate, Edie Sedgwick a fost petrecareata care l-a propulsat pe Warhol in “cercul de aur” al acelor vremuri.

Elementele distinctive pentru stilul vestimentar al lui Edie sunt colantii negri, cerceii vintage, imensi, ochi puternic crerionati cu negru (machiaj despre care chiar ea spunea ca, fiind foarte dificil, petrece doua ore pe zi realizandu-l), si tunsoarea pixie.

Filmul bazat pe viata lui Edie Sedgwick, “Factory Girl” (cu Sienna Miller in rolul principal), reda intr-un mod mimetic stilul ei vestimentar care a devenit atat de cunoscut.

I feel some kind of obsession for the world’s greatest women, the ones who influenced the fashion, the people, artists and designers. One of them is Edie Sedgwick. She was an American actress, socialite, model and artist. She is best known for being one of Andy Warhol’s superstars. Edie became known as “The Girl of the Year” in 1965 after starring in several of Warhol’s short films, and also as “The factory girl”. Soon after, she was gracing the pages of Life, Vogue, and Glamour. She became “it girl” of those years, but Edie’s instability was hardly helped by her new fast-lane lifestyle, and she died at 28.

Rich, gorgeous and well-connected, Edie Sedgwick was the party girl who lit up Andy Warhol’s golden circle. The elements that have defined Edie’s style are black, opaque tights, huge,vintage earrings, eyes contoured in black (the “two hours make-up”), pixie haircut.

The fashion in Factory Girl, the biographical film based on Edie’s life(Sienna Miller), represents her unique taste in clothing.

You knew that you couldn’t really have her, everybody knew that, that she was doomed. You just knew that.

Danny Fields, as quoted in Edie : Girl On Fire (2006)

13 years ago Short URL 1 Comment

great personalities

60s/andy warhol/edie sedgwick/factory girl/fashion/movie/sienna miller

Oct

Mitzah Bricard – Dior’s muse.

Mitzah Bricard a fost, pentru Dior, un dar divin. Era numita “muzeul miscator” al lui Dior. A existat ceva imortal in aceasta femeie cu profil de Cleopatra, si daca ea nus- ar fi nascut, el ar fi inventat-o.

Atunci cand a fost intrebata de Stanley Marcus, care intentiona sa ii trimita flori in semn de multumire, daca are vreun florar preferat, ea a raspuns : “Desigur! Cartier”.

Exista o unda de mister care planeaza in jurul acestei femei, despre care nu se cunosc foarte multe lucruri, nici macar in prezent. Nu multa lume stie ca ea a ajutat la gasirea unui nume pentru parfumul pe care Christian Dior isi dorea sa il creeze, Miss Dior, in 1947.

Se spune ca nu a fost vazuta niciodata fara pantofii ei stiletto, fara turban si fara perle. De asemenea , a introdus in moda un element statement, esarfa animal print, pe care o purta pentru a-si ascunde o cicatrice.

In aprilie 2011, casa de moda Dior a lansat o editie limitata inspirata din imaginea nemuritoare a muzei lui Dior, colectie care curpinde fard de ochi si doua nuante de lac de unghii.

Mitzah Bricard was a godsend. She was Dior’s walking museum. If she had not existed, he would invented her. There was something immortal about this face with the Cleopatra profile and incessant bravado, so much a part of her personality that no one dared openly take offense. There was no need for words between Dior and his muse. They were creatures of the same realm. “Do you have a favourite florist?” Stanley Marcus once inquired of this outrageous woman, wishing to thank her for some favour or other. “Certainly.”, came the reply. “Cartier”. She helped Dior to find a name for his perfume, by seeing Ch. Dior’s sister she said “look, there comes Miss Dior.”

This spring, Dior released a leopard-designed collection inspired by Mitzah Bricard. She was known for her love of animal prints. This collection includes an eye shadow palette and 2 nail varnishes.